Contemporary Uzbekistan and Polish soldiers in 1942

The Uzbeks are usually very friendly and social. They invite guests over to their home straight away. This stems not only from their openness and hospitality, but also the fact that residential buildings are surrounded by a tall, gated fence. Its splendour depends on one’s wealth and is a first indicator of one’s socio-economic status. Drinking sweet tea at home - or, preferably, in a shaded courtyard, is a must. Grapevines towering by every building - both on the streets and in the gardens - are yet another symbol of wealth. They fulfill a dual purpose. On the one hand, they give fruits from which raisins can be produced. On the other hand, their leaves guarantee much needed shade in the scorching heat. scorching heat. The beginning of September is harvest time – during that time they are the tastiest. Just a short, friendly conversation with a stranger on the street is enough to immediately receive a bunch of grapes. By plucking fruits, sitting in the shade, you can engage in conversation.

Today one can drive through this area by car, but one can imagine how camel caravans were once omnipresent instead. Boukhara was one of the most important cities of this part of today’s Uzbekistan. An important route of the famous Silk Road ran through this area. Luxurious goods from the East were transported to the West, from Asia to Europe. Cities and powerful states were formed along the route and benefited from its riches. The meeting of cultures always fostered growth and scientific progress. No wonder therefore that in XII century this part of the world was known to be a scientific centre. This is where an enormous (from India to today’s Turkey) Timur’s (Tamerlan’s) empire spread. During his reign, Timur made efforts to attract numerous artists and scientists. His grandson - Ulug Bega - greatly contributed to the empire’s growth, particularly as far as science is concerned. The march of the Polish army in 1942, full of malnourished, diseased soldiers only recently freed from labour camps, must have been a particularly sombre sight against this background. They had their army uniforms, but continued to carry the burden of Soviet labour camps and miserable living conditions in exile. After being essentially convicted to death by the communist system, they made steps towards regaining their pride and hope for a return to a free homeland.

Polish soldiers arriving to Uzbekistan were usually exhausted. Taken from freezing steppes, they explored a culturally and historically rich region that was completely unknown to them.
Further, they had to face unfamiliar climate conditions. What initially seemed like salvation - warmth and sun - quickly turned into a curse for exhausted bodies. Klemens Rudnicki recalled that his regiment was placed “nearby the Kashka-Daria river, 10 kilometres away from the town of Kitab. Only the regiment’s command and the infirmary were placed in wooden buildings of “vinzavod”, a winery. Trees and shade were scarce, tents were set up in scorching heat, and the proximity of the river as well as abundant “ariki” (irrigation ditches) soon proved to be the garrison’s curse and a breeding ground for malaric anopheles.” (Klemens Rudnicki, op. cit., p. 188-189). Similar stories from the 6. Infantry Division were described by Jerzy Stypułkowski. He claimed that troops initially experienced bloody diarrhoea, followed by typhus [...]. The first to die in my squadron was young, talented, promising officer cadet Światowiec.

Soon after a catholic cemetery appeared on this Uzbek outback. People started coming in. Former soldiers, now starving beggars, checked in with the command. One of them came later on. No one knows where he came from and what he went through. He mustered enough strength to come up three steps of stairs before passing away. He met the end of his journey!” (Jerzy Stypułkowski, Loyal to the oath. Tragedy of the Anders Army’s troops, Warsaw 2016, p. 181).